WE LIVE AND LEARN
It was more of a learning experience than entertainment during my recent vacation to Goa.
Since some time my wife and daughter ( son wants to travel with friends; too old for parents to handle ), have been taunting and teasing me that I never take the family out on vacation and if at all I do , it is to Tirth Sthans ( Holy places ). So in order to reconstruct my image ; just prior to the year ending when my LTC was about to lapse I took the plunge and managed to book to and fro tickets by Air to Goa. Was also lucky to get accommodation at Naval Mess despite heavy booking.
In the past I had visited Goa for short durations mostly on board ships . Our outings were therefore be limited to Bogmallo beach where most of us ship officers would find each other invariably in the evenings. The standard Goan food consisting of fish curry and rice accompanied by Beer or Aalay was relished and then return to our ships to sail the next day to Mumbai or Kochi.
Influence of Portuguese in my mind was limited to knowledge of wine and dine only. I was aware of the Goan liberation movement and had also watched Khwaja Ahmad Abbas’s ‘ Saat Hindustani’. In a lecture I attended during ‘Maritime History conference’ I remember that one speaker described the atrocities and cruelties of Portuguese on Indian subjects. The fact is that they ruled the place for 450 years and influenced the economy, society and culture of Goa.My guide at old Goa told me that there were about 35% Christians in Goa, which speaks of the penetration of Portuguese influence on Society.However I wondered that as British presence in India could be felt and seen in various facets still! Which was not case with Portuguese. British impact being on the language, architecture, the vast bureaucracy they created, education , religion custom and manners. The most important being that we can still interact with the human remnants of Raj --- Anglo Indians of British origin and some British themselves such as Mark Tully and Ruskin Bond .My Head Master in school was an Irish Brother. But to understand Goa and its Portuguese influence there remains no direct human medium, only the large number of Indians they converted. The football influence is distinct. I have yet to see or talk to any Portuguese or to an Anglo Indian of Portuguese root.
Therefore I attempted to understand and assimilate Goa from its surroundings. During the four days when I visited the various places north and south of Panjim it was by the Architecture that I was struck; churches and chapels were indeed different from the stone cathedrals of British India. The Goan churches were large, there was external simplicity and at many places white lime was applied to the walls. Inside the gold paint at the altar, pulpit attracted my attention. The Structures were as if conveying well ! this is how mankind should be – external simplicity but heart of Gold! Government neglect and casual attitude of archaeological department was also visible. What enchanted me the most were the beautiful design of Goan homes spread along the long beach side surrounded by coconut trees. Similar such houses , cottages , bungalows I had seen in Kochi too but here the number was more and were homogeneously spread out . The tiled- sloping roof in harmony with the setting, glasswork, design of doors and windows , the balanced work indeed was pleasing. Fine mind of cruel? Rulers ! Another noticeable feature were the temples of Goa. Bold, wonderful colours in praise of God, similar to Kerala, but just. Small chapels/holy crosses along the way added to the serenity of the surroundings.
We had Goan food at numerous places. Small huts and smart restaurants but standard was strikingly same . The new feature is the influx of resident foreign tourist, who akin to migratory birds make Goa their home for the winter months sustaining on Indian warmth. They moved in hired scooters/bikes bare chest in conformity with the freedom and frolic of the place.
Prolonged presence of foreign tourists is slowly changing the colour and complexion of beaches and its approaches. The glossy shops selling Indian goods have cornered much of prime area virtually clouding the simplicity and nativity of semi urban setting. The well lit and colourful restaurants at Condolem beach could easily compete with that of Fremantle or any such foreign locale. Rates were reasonable and food variety and quality was good.
Multitude of middle class Indian tourist also visit Goa , but we seem to be in such hurry while on vacation that meaning of true leisure eludes us. Probably with some more prosperity and commercialism we will imbibe the taste and talent of English holidayers. On occasions I am compelled to think that we seem to tour only for status symbol, in order to show off ; dutifully completing the planned programme so that places visited could be ticked off as important jobs completed. Hoards of buses converge toward important beaches muscling their way through slim country roads unfit for such aggression in order to satisfy the search of Indian tourists for themselves !
Goa too cannot escape the eternal flux of time no matter how we conservatives! lament, this change is inevitable. The only redeeming feature of this process seems to be that the common man is gaining economically, his state is improving. The famous food of Goa which was its hallmark is giving way to multi-cuisine culture catering to the widening tourist strength. The old houses are being refurbished to international taste, new construction in Panjim has mounted the small hills.
I returned happy my family seems to have enjoyed. What I carried with me was the fact that there are certain good influences of any culture we should not ignore. I wondered as to why the people of Goa were so friendly and peaceful was it result of Portuguese life style influence? However Portugal still remains remote to me it is still distant in my mind, I will continue to make attempts in my subsequent visits to fathom this distant conqueror!
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