रविवार, 29 जून 2014

SUMMER MEMORIES OF ALLAHABAD

                               SUMMER MEMORIES OF ALLAHABAD
  





     








The summer is in full bloom, the monsoons delayed, the temperatures are creating new records. The birds search for water in streets and doorsteps of concrete structures! The dogs gasp with elongated tongues, the world moves on!

  What triggered me to write this was one last week's incident. I stay in a multi-storey apartment in Mumbai, it was Saturday and I was at home . Work was in progress in the flat opposite to mine . The previous occupant had vacated the flat and it was being prepared for the new occupant and therefore a mason and one helper were in the flat. Occasionally they would press the door bell and request for water to be filled in their plastic bottle and our domestic help would oblige ; this was going on for few days, and our maid  therefore was a little irritated. When the door bell rang for the second time on that day she gave water but told them firmly that water was  also available in the taps of the house where they were working. I was hearing this and quickly told her that it was O.K ; may be they expect clean, cold water from our residence and the matter ended.
    
        The incident made me think and many memories of the summers spent in the heat waves of Allahabad came rushing; though all seasons visit Allahabad, but the city is famous for its summer ! My Mother returning  home by rickshaw after her examination duties, how she would insist that an urn full of water be given to to the rickshawala and she would ensure that a piece of 'gur' ( jaggery) is also given as it was her belief that in hot weather when one was sweating one should not drink cold water empty stomach .Water serving points( piau) were available at street corners as it was the custom of the city.

       The summer began soon after Holi and ended close to Diwali, May to August were hottest period. At that time Acs were nonexistent in middle class homes , later we could afford water coolers ;but not in all rooms . In summers we would lie on the floor and the solitary USHA fan was our source of survival; the fan is still serviceable! The heat in Allahabad was a challenge, we were always cautioned to guard against the dreaded 'loo' ( the heat wave peculiar to summer seasons in eastern UP) and covered our head with a soft towel when venturing out, the agony was aggravated by the fact that the movement was slow , either on cycle or on rickshaw; scooter came later which was a relief.Sometimes I  would see a solitary person on the road between High Court and Circuit House on a cycle with his head covered fighting the heat wave and opposing hot wind and trying to make way, his movement ahead would be very slow and from a distance it would appear the the cycle was stationary on the road, during the afternoons the only shops open would be of 'Paan/bidi/cigarette'!. My Father also suffered in summers along with other lawyers as there was no change in the dress regulation, he was tied down by the black coat and what accompanies Lawyers' uniform  and was sweating all the time , there were white sweat marks perennially under the arms of his coat.  Maybe the court rooms were air conditioned/air cooled or  'khus-khus' was put but the journey was full of hot air.Most Government offices had coolers for the officers and Khas- Khas mats for the staff, casual staff was recruited during the period to water the vertical Khas-Khas mats fixed to the doors and the windows which cooled the air and the very smell /aroma of Khus -Khus was refreshing( i miss those days).

        Reading occupied much of our time during vacations; Nandan, Parag ( children's magazines) when children and  weekly/ fortnightly magazines such as Samtahik Hindustan, Dharmyug, Illustrated weekly,  when grown up, we graduated to reading Premchand and James Hadley Chase soon. Panna( a drink made of raw mangoes, fresh mint and sugar/jaggery) was available at home and Kissan's  orange and lemon squash and Rasna were also there, coke was a luxury. Water was cooled in a big 'Ghara' ( a big earthen  container )which was filled in the morning, it was supplemented by a few 'surahis'  ( a slim earthen container) and direct from the tap ; aqua guards and filters were non existent. Surahi was carried during journeys on train and often purchased at the station and whilst disembarking either handed over to a fellow passenger or broken by throwing out of the train window. It is a common belief that the water of Surahi was the sweetest( or was it the water of Jamuna in Allahabad which was sweet?)

     Sometimes we friends would go to swim at the the enclosed coral club swimming pool. Cucumber the thick and thin variety were relished after application of liberal salt and red chilly , the Kharbujas( melon)of Allahabad are to be found nowhere else , green in colour from inside and yellow-green pattern outside , always sweet, we made juice out of it when mixies arrived. Mangoes would be suckled passionately; at least 5 to 6 in one go; the small desi variety .Allahabad is blessed with huge tamarind trees which not only provide shade but sweet and sour fruit which was strewn on the road struck by wind  or bird or children throwing stones to pluck the ripe and raw pod. On certain occasions we were treated to the famous thandai( a beverage made of milk and dry fruits).

  Clothes most preferred were half pants /Tshirts and the universal white lose kurta-pyjamas. The vegetables grew despite the heat and lauki, tinda parbal were available . These were grown in kachar(  sandy region close to river). At night the fruits and vegetables from the kachar were carried on camel's back to the mandi for sale the next day. It was a picturesque sight to see the camel's in one line slowly moving toward destination as the cycles and rickshaw plied alongside.My mother would invariably shop for the vegetables and fruits on her return from college from the road adjacent to Government Press and behind the AG Office, where fresh vegetables and fruits of the season were available.

 Many years have passed since I left the historic city but I remember it for many reasons and one is its distinct summer- the smell of the 'heated earth' is deeply etched in my heart and mind.